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  1. #1
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    Definitely seems like the motherboard.

    Sounds like you've ruled out many causes. The leaky caps were a common issue of that era of boards and if they do look bad the motherboard needs replacing regardless as it's just a matter of time before they fail, even if it's not the current issue.

    I know it sounds silly, but some motherboards won't post if the CMOS battery is dead. Most will and just won't save the settings and lose time, so I doubt it's that but I just thought I'd bring it up.

    mATX boards fit ATX standoffs fine - they just don't use the bottom set.

    Can't think of where you'd get new Socket A boards from. Some manufacturers do refurbished units, but it would probably be cheaper grabbing something off ebay as you've mentioned.

    Had a quick look on ebay:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=250170205979

    New and 100% tested. DDR 333 will work fine at 266. Need to check manufacturers website for CPU compatibility if it's a fast Athlon XP.

    Some second hand ones ending soon:

    http://computers.search-desc.ebay.co...refinesearchZ1
    Last edited by Bloodwych; 2nd October 2007 at 14:57. Reason: Double posting - posts have been automerged
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  2. #2
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    Thanks for the links.

    Sadly the KT266A chipset is for the older 266MHz FSB Athlon XPs such as the Palomino versions, and I need a chipset that supports a 333MHz FSB for newer Barton CPUs.

    I've now found a new Athlon XP motherboard. ASRock K7S41GX for £27 which is a Micro ATX motherboard and should be OK for what the owner needs.

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  3. #3
    For those who dare! ClassicWB dev
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    Hope everything goes well.

    I thought the CPU might be incompatible, as mentioned above. Well, it would work, but I don't think the client would be happy with a slower machine!
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    Exactly.

    I've now ordered it so hopefully it will arrive tomorrow and miss the 5 day postal strike!

    If you haven't played a classic game in years, it's never too late to start!


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    How much grease!

    [begin rant]

    Don't system builders know what the purpose of thermal grease is?

    Every pre-built system I've repaired or upgraded for people have had extremely excessive amounts of the stuff gunging up the CPU and heatsink!

    All that should be there is a very thin (1mm) thick layer of thermal grease between the CPU and heatsink to fill in any undulations in the surface of both the CPU and heatsink plate, making a smooth surface to maintain contact with the most surface area between the two for maximum heat dissipation. Any more grease than that at it has a reverse effect and makes the heat dissipation less efficient.

    [/end rant]

    Deep breath...

    Some may remember I had trouble removing a Pentium 4 from a socket a while back, while repairing a system for someone. The heatsink would not come away from the CPU even though it was unlocked from the motherboard. A hair dryer on its hottest setting eventually freed them and the amount of thermal grease on the CPU was silly.

    And today, while waiting for a motherboard to arrive, I decided to strip down the system ready for the board. One removing the heatsink I have discovered that there was so much thermal grease used that as it had got hot it has spread out from just being over the CPU and has also gone all over the surrounding circuit board and circuits. That's one downfall of the older Athlon chips as they didn't have a heat spreader over the CPU and the actual CPU is exposed making it harder to clean.

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  6. #6
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    I agree, they love using that cheap white crap that spreads everywhere and because it isn't conductive they just lash it on.

    The wax that comes pre-applied to heatsinks is also a pain to clean off. I always remove that rubbish and apply as you said - a nice thin layer of compound, preferably artic silver which is well worth the money as it lasts forever and it's easy to clean.

    The first time I came across the stuck CPU scenario convinced me to always run a benchmark program and get the CPU nice and hot before removal. Never had an issue since.
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    That's OK if the system is working, but normally I get them to repair when they are dead (PSU or motherboard normally) so I can't warm them up first.

    One good tip to always remember after warming up a CPU is to not just grab the heatsink. They can be bloody hot!

    If you haven't played a classic game in years, it's never too late to start!


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