Gamecube modding

[Buleste]

Recently I decided to modchip my Gamecube. Getting the modchip was easy XenoGC is still available but the biggest problem was the case to fit normal sized DVD's. Gamecube replacement cases just aren't made anymore but I found this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/oulet-game/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686) ebay shop still selling them and in large quantities very cheaply (apart from P&P to England but what the hay it's a Gamecube case with flashing LEDs what's not to love?).

Installation of the modchip is easy if a little fiddly but the soldering is straight forward. Adjusting the laser is the most difficult part for which you'll need a multimeter to reduce the OHMS from around 500 to 200.

Of course you could buy a WiiKey fusion which is an SD card device that replaces the original drive however I've yet to see any neat and tidy ways of doing it and all ways mean you cannot play original disks.

[Harrison]

I didn't see much point in modding my Gamecube because the Wii can play all GC games, and a soft modded one can run burned GC games. So that is perfect for me.

I do however still really like the gamecube. It was a very underrated console with some very nice games.

[Buleste]

For me it's the age old argument of Emulator versus original hardware and whilst I also have a soft modded Wii It's still not quite the same as using the original hardware.

For example LOZ:OOT is best played on the N64. It's still a good game on the GC but not quite the same and on the Wii even less so. Stupid, but that's how my brain works.

[Demon Cleaner]

I have a Qoob Pro modchip in my GC, and it works like a charm. I'm using the smaller DVDs for my games, and that's just fine. Only problem would be in finding them nowadays. I still have some, and I remember that you also had to have specific ones, as most of them didn't work. Can't remember which brand it was, but basically the brand didn't matter so much, it was more the media code.

[Buleste]

From what I've been reading Sony and Phillips are the best Mini DVD-R's you can get but the price is getting silly now.

[Harrison]

These days buying original second hand GCN games are cheap, other than a couple off specific games, ask not rely much need for backups.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

[Demon Cleaner]

I looked now, I've been using Memorex and Piodata discs. The media code was Ritek G04.

I found some here: http://www.meritline.com/ritek-mini-dvd-r-media-4x-10---p-18396.aspx (10 for not even 5£)

They even have cheaper ones: http://www.meritline.com/ritek-ridata-mini-4x-dvd-r-white-inkjet-printable---p-18394.aspx (10 for 2.35£)

I think if you try these, you cannot go wrong.

[Harrison]

I used to use Ritek G04 dye code DVD-Rs years ago. I didn't know it was still being made.

They are fairly reliable at burning, with hardly any coasters, although I did get around 5 failures out of every 100. But their lifespan isn't going to be brilliant because they use an organic dye that will breakdown and degrade due to light, so they are best kept in the dark. For a long time I've only used AZO metal dye based media because once written the dye sets in a much stronger structure, with a much more reflective properly similar to commercial pressed discs.

I used to buy mine from svp.co.uk, but unsure of they ever sold the mini DVD discs.

[Buleste]

I've tried Kodak that I had but then bought some cheap imation DVD-R's and they work perfectly. They even work with the POT set at 250 so I'm extra happy about that.

[Harrison]

Kodak used to make some brilliant blank media. Their gold CD-Rs used to be brilliant and would work on even the fussiest CD player/drive. They used to use actual gold within a metal based dye to give much better reflective properties, hence the reason they worked well in most drives. Sadly Kodak pulled out of the media manufacturing market years ago.

I'm surprised imation discs work so well as they are really cheap branded media. Do you know what the dye type is they use?

[Kin Hell]

Just wanted to pass on my experiences with Ritek dye disks back in the day of DVD's. Sure, they worked great when they were new, but so many of mine deteriorated with time. I used them mainly for backing up movies & these disks were the mutts nuts for video in their day. Sounds a bit of a wild statement but some disks start to play okay & then break up & finally freeze. That's on a Denon 1942 player that use to play them fine. shove the same Ritek disks into a PC & they are fine. :huh2: I'd say I have about a 75% fail rate on the DVD player now & I even had the Denon serviced to take the laser out of the equation. Kodak GOLD were simply stunning in their day too though these days, I use Verbatim branded (http://www.scan.co.uk/products/50pcs-cakebox-verbatim-43550-47gb-dvdplusr-16x-single-layer-matt-silver-120min) for single sided & Aone (http://www.scan.co.uk/products/25pcs-cakebox-aoneplus(gold)-dl-8x-ff-25c-85gb-dvdplusr-dl-8x-dual-layer-full-face-printable-240min) for dual sided.

The amazing thing about this anomaly for me is that Ritek dye media has failed where Amiga Floppys are still banging away. :shades:

[Harrison]

YEP, I also only use Verbatim AZO media for a long time now too. I use their DL discs too. Just make sure the batches you buy are not manufactured in India because they have much higher failure rates due to poor manufacturing where the bonding between the dye and polycarbonate layers is weak and causes coaster or read errors. Discs manufactured in Japan are best, but Singapore is also good.

And the reasons your old Ritek dye disks are failing is exactly for the reasons I said before. They are organic dye and will break down over time, and this is accelerated by exposure to light.

There really is no 100% safe archival media yet. You would think in this day and age someone would have created something that is robust enough to store digital data without any chance of corruption or read errors.

[Buleste]

I haven't got a clue what dye they use in imation disks but I bought another 10 yesterday to see if the first lot was a freak and every single one of them work perfectly on my Gamecube set with the laser set at 250 ohms which is good as somepeople have to go as low as 80 Ohms to get theirs to read disks which shortens the lifespan of the laser.

[Harrison]

If you have Nero installed you can check what the actual dye make is by using the Infotool. Would be interested to know what they are using.

[Buleste]

I'm using ImgBurn.

[Harrison]

You can also use this free tool:

http://dvd.identifier.cdfreaks.com/